2 days on, 1 day off is the rough recipe I am following to keep the skin and body alive while climbing in Squamish this summer. Modifications have been made for aberrations in the schedule such as weather and timing with partners. In addition, I’ve been running 3 – 5 miles about two to three times a week, doing a core workout 1 – 2 times per week, yoga a few times a week and PT 2-3 times per week. I’ve brought a small, portable hang board along which I haven’t used in addition to some rock rings.
At the beginning of June, I made the drive out from Colorado to Index, Washington in less than two days where I met my buddy Erich who is on an extended vacation. We climbed a day there and then journeyed Northward across the border to Squamish, BC, my temporary home for the next couple months. After thoroughly getting my ass kicked in Index for a day, and every single hardish for me trad climb I got on in Squamish…and tears…persistence has begun to pay off in my desire to push my personal bests in the trad game.
After climbing a few days with me (including an eduro-fest on the crux of Squamish Buttress and mini-epic on an 11a at Murrin Park I was scared of the gear on), Erich told me the biggest glaring weakness in my climbing is my speed. “No one can hold on that long, even Ondra.” haha…. I’m slow and steady. I like to be sure of my moves and, of course, to feel good about the gear. When onsighting, I sometimes get wrapped up in the worry about what’s ahead, so procrastinate and wear myself out. That certainly happened on Squamish Buttress. Ugh. I tried so hard! (by standing there and staying super pumped while trying to figure out and commit to a hard move).
I told Erich I needed some confidence, to project some harder 10’s and easier 5.11’s to feel a little bit better, so I can talk myself through it. If I start to procrastinate on an easier grade (5.10), then I can be like “chrissy, get your shit together, you can do this, you can climb harder than this.” Amongst the grander multi-pitch adventures, Erich has been willing to appease my need for these mini-projects with some good results.
Having never sent a 5.11 on gear, recent ticks now include: Kangaroo Corner (11a), Yorkshire Gripper (11b) and Exasperator (10c – done as one pitch, of course). I think all three excited me equally. First 5.11 on gear…woot, woot! Next one being a 11b is pretty rad and that one is a “Top 100” in Squamish so hellz to the yea. For both of these, they took 3-4 tries so I had the gear and moves dialed. Exasperator was rad because its long and so good! I wasn’t “fast” but there was no retreating or backing down and was a solid lead for a retro-onsight. I think I toproped that route 3-4 years ago.
I haven’t quite had the luck nor simply the confidence to onsight a gear 5.11 as of yet. Crime of the Century (11c) seems more doable at the moment than sending the Grand Wall (11a – ugh to liebacking…), but I digress and to be continued at a later date.
Thanks @erichpurpur for the photo of me crawling my way off of Bellygood Ledge.
Expectations, goals, fear, ego, tears, pain… alongside with pleasure, joy, laughter, warmth, love, grit in this silly game of climbing we play.
Persistence, determination. That’s what I got going for me, probably more than anything.
I just re-read this, so I couldn’t help it springing into my brain:
“I don’t want to be judged on the grades that I climb; judge me on my determination. Don’t judge me on whether or not I failed or succeeded, but judge me based on how I handled that failure or success.
—
And definitely, don’t judge me on what I may or may not be wearing that day. That fabric has nothing to do with the fabric of who I am.” – fortheloveofclimbing